Yuta NOTO

The Research of Wave Prediction for the Japan/East Sea during the Winter Period

Tokuzou HOSOYAMADA

Knowledge of wave conditions is a vital ingredient for efficient and safe marine operations, disaster preparedness, and beach safety. However, ocean waves are an extremely complex physical phenomenon, since the behavior of the waves is influenced by many different physical processes, i.e. wind, gravitational pull from the sun and moon, changes in atmospheric pressure, etc. In the Japan/East Sea, wave conditions are especially rough during the winter period owing to the general characteristics of the wind mode above the Japan/East Sea. Therefore, knowledge of past, present and future wave conditions during the winter season in the Japan/East Sea is needed for commercial and recreational activities in this utilized coastal zone. In this research, the basic feature of the wave conditions in the Japan/East Sea during the winter period was verified by analyzing the data, which was accumulated by observation and the various types of predicting methods.